We don't see many wines from Germany's mid-region centered around Würzburg, near the Bavarian border. Franken is famous for its Silvaner and is one of two regions allowed to use the flat Bocksbeutel (goat scrotum) bottle, which is wildly impractical, except it doesn't roll away while you're sleeping. Made by Peter Leipold (lye-pold) in the village of Obervolkach, his "Muschelkalk" is named for the local limestone, which translates literally into "mollusk shell chalk," and that's precisely what you get. Without an ocean in sight, this super-dry, crisp Silvaner shows wet seashells, minerals, limestone, and nervy, piercing citrus. If you love Chablis, Muscadet, Albariño, and Sancerre, try this with your next seafood dinner. It also works with chicken, pork, and a good book. 13% abv.
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