German wine labels are getting more light-hearted. They used sport bucolic images of misty castles and spooky monasteries. Today's young winemakers are less likely to be descended from wine dynasties or attached to such conventions and prefer a more eye-catching label and a fresh approach to winemaking. Max Kilburg makes Vertigo at Weingut Geierslay along the winding Mosel River, famous for world-class Riesling. Even at its moderate price, Vertigo is 100% village fruit from Wintrich, not too far from Bernkastel-Kues. This Feinherb is 10.5% ABV with a snappy, zingy palate of yellow and green fruit, citrus, and just a touch of residual sugar.
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